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Last year, I came to Kenya for the first time. I stayed in a nice Guest
House that was gated off and full of fellow travelers. I rode in Land
Rovers around the City. This year, I came alone, without a group and
decided to stay for three weeks instead of one. I also decided to stay
with a Kenyan family instead of in a hotel or Guest House. And, to get
even more of the experience, I ride public transit or walk and I go to
the local market instead of the mall. I am experiencing urban Kenya!
I have been here now for 5 days and it has taken me that long just to
adjust to the food, time change, and cultural differences. I will try
to blog each day now, but this will be the longest one since it covers
the five days I have already been here. This will be my personal
reflections and experiences. I have had such a hard time staying awake during the day that I have
not taken the time to get many pictures on my travels outside the
house, so I will try to get more of those starting today and add them
here.
I am beginning to think that, although week-long international trips
are exciting and beneficial, one almost needs a week of simply getting
used to time and culture before beginning any work. I am staying with
Gideon and Cecilia Ochieng. They live in a beautiful house that is
connected to three others. The house is full of sunlight and the sounds
of cleaning in the daytime and the sounds of laughter at night. It is a
three story house with a rooftop balcony and TV room, four bedrooms, an
office, kitchen, living room and dining room. Their daughters,
Gabrielle and Samara are probably two of the most beautiful children I
have ever seen and are a joy to play with.
Gabrielle is six and is teaching me Swahili one word at a time. She is
very smart and reminds me of a mini adult. Samara is four and full of
energy. Her laughter makes anyone feel good and is a sound I will never
tire of. Cecilia is beautiful and young (she's my age!!). She is
welcoming and fun and when I am talking to her, I feel like I've known
her my whole life. She is strong, smart, and full of wisdom. We spoke
for a long time last night and I felt at home in the conversation. She
is a global thinker and sees the world the way I do. Gideon is witty
and reflective. He is quiet much of the time, but is wise in his
speech. There are things about him that remind me of my grandfather. He
seems to know a lot about the world and it is clear that he cares very
much for people, especially children. His sister, Marta (sp?) also
lives here. She is strong and silent. She is the first awake to prepare
breakfast for the family and make sure everyone gets fed and out the
door in time. She works hard all day cleaning the house, cooking the
food, and helping in anyway that is needed. She is beautiful and quiet.
Here are some things that make homes in Kenya different than homes in the United States:
1. Showers: You have to turn a switch on for hot water in the shower.
The water is VERY hot, so you decided each day of you prefer that or
cold water. I've done both and don't mind either. There is not always
running water in the house. So far, I have been lucky and we've had
water everyday. Still, I am conscience of the economy of it all and I
take very short showers in comparison to the ones I take at home. I am
also only washing my hair every three days. This seems to actually be
good for my hair and it is feeling much softer.
2. Electricity: This is also something that is not always working. I
have been lucky here too and it has not gone out yet. The house is so
full of windows and light that you barely need any electricity during
the day. I wake up each morning and pull my shades open instead of
turning on the light. When I leave the room, I turn everything off.
Each electric outlet has a switch that you only turn on if you are
using that outlet. from an environmental standpoint, Kenyans are way
ahead of us on conservation. I think we could learn a lot from them and
I hope to take what I am learning home with me. In many ways, I am
realizing how wasteful we really are.
3. Floors: When you enter a Kenyan home, you take your shoes off. There
are rows of shoes inside the door. The floors are stone and tile and
very clean. I walk around in my socks and they have yet to be dirty. In
my own home, this is definitely NOT the case. (Kate and Kirsten, expect
me to suggest some changes when I get home :-).
4. Laundry: For the most part, laundry is done by hand and hung on
lines on the roof. This has its challenges considering it is still
rainy season, but it seems organic and real to me. I am due for clean
clothes myself and will do laundry today or tomorrow. I'll take
pictures for those of you who are shocked that I am doing this by hand
:-). When I am on the roof looking over all the houses and lines of
clothes, I see beauty. The brilliant colors that line the roofs dance
in the warm Kenyan breeze and are a treat for the eye.
5. People: Kenyan culture is all about community. In the home where I
am staying, there are three other homes attached by a common courtyard.
When I walk out the front door, I can take a few steps and walk right
into Cecilia's sister's front door (which I have to do if I need a
microwave). Between homes, people greet each other, talk about their
day, and share resources. Homes are open and welcoming. there is a
constant flow of people in and out of the house. I find it hard to
imagine that anyone ever feels alone. I sometimes have an empty, lonely
feeling in my own house when my roommates are not around. Here, I feel
safe, warm, and never alone. In general, people seem confident, real,
and open. Last night, Gideon introduced me as the newest family member.
I feel like he's right because they have made me feel more at home than
I have ever felt visiting others.
6. Sounds: In the morning, you can hear the call to worship from the
local Mosque. I don't understand what they are saying, but it is
beautiful and goes perfectly with the twilight of early morning.
Roosters replace alarm clocks here. They do a great job of singing in
the morning and then they bless us throughout the day as well.
Throughout the day, one can hear music from neighboring houses, women
singing as they work, and a local dog who never ties of whimpering.
Cars and people are constantly coming and going and the loud screeching
and bang of the front gate indicates that someone is home.
One last note: I am quite proud of the fact that I have now taken
public transit several times. Public transit consists of Matatus and
Hoppas. Matatus are small vans that carry people from stop to stop much
like a bus. They are numberd in the front, covered in pictures of rap
stars and Jesus, and usually have American hip hop, reggae, or Kenyan
hip hop blaring from the stereo systems. People are stuffed into them
until they can't fit any more and there are often young men hanging
from the side who take the fares and help people on and off. They
typically cost 10-20 shillings (14-26 cents). You must get on and off
them very quickly and it is important to know what number you are
supposed to get on so you don't end up in a part of the city you've
never seen before. Hoppas are similar except they are larger and much
like a bus in the states. Sometimes, there are men selling things like
cookies on them. they are, honestly, a little less intimidating :-).
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